Thursday July 1 [1 July 1909] Cold night. Started off an hour after sunrise and rode to Kizil D. Hittite where I took some photographs and looked at the site again. The white cut stones on the hillside seem to have come from a building on the very top of the hill of which the foundations remain - the peasants have dug into them. To the W the wall is apparently round. So rode down to Aryk Euren [Arikˆren] where I arrived soon after noon. Went to village to see a Greek inscrip. after lunch. Paid off my zaptieh Ahmed Chowwish and the arabaji Mustafa Agha and sat in the station reading papers and writing letters. Seems to be more corn grown on the plain than formerly. We passed through miles of it between Suleiman Hajji and the station but none quite near the station. The crops this year horribly light on account of the drought - it wd scarcely in some places yield next year's seed. I got into the train with Mrs Chambers and her daughter Dorothy and her nephew Lawson Chambers from Adana [(Seyhan, Ataniya)]. She says the horrors and destruction cannot be exaggerated. They think the govt was behind it from the first. The Vali knew of the counter revolution the day before and therefore took no steps whatever to stop things. A Turk sheltered some well known Armenians, went to the Konak and asked for 20 soldiers saying he cd end things. The Vali said there were no soldiers. He returned and said to the Armenians "You must go. I cannot help you; it is by order of the govt." Mrs Doughty Wylie saw the soldiers firing during the first massacre. It cannot be positively said that arms were given but the redifs were called in and armed and then went out and attacked the Xian villages. People kept coming in saying that the Armenians had set fire to their villages and on every occasion arms or troops were given but Mr Lawson Chambers rode round for 9 hours afterwards and saw no Turkish village burnt. At Mersina [Mersin [IÁel)] Turks came in from a village saying the Armenians had set it on fire but the Kaimmakam sent them away saying they themselves had set fire to it and had better go and put it out. Between the first and second massacres the mollahs came to the consulate and to the Chambers' and said thank Heaven it was over, there wd be no more. When Major Doughty stopped the Bp from landing the mollahs all thanked him and said now they were safe from a recurrence of massacre. But the richest part of the Armenian quarter was standing - saved by the revolutionary Armenians, Hemchags and others - who had fired so hard the Turks did not dare to enter. Here were the American mission buildings. The Chamberses think the Moslem population was determined from the first to loot this. Some of the Armenian arms were taken away, from those who were allowed to seek protection in the churches, and Major D. went round with officials to see that it was fairly done. The morning the Salonica [Thessaloniki (Saloniki)] troops arrived there was great terror in the city; it was feared that they and the Arab troops wd come to blows. Probably the local troops and Moslem inhabitants brought the thing on, determined to include the Sal. troops. At any rate when they arrived firing had begun and they were told to take certain positions and fire. They said they knew nothing and did as they were told. They were very much ashamed of themselves afterwards. The second massacre was on the 25th I think. It lasted 36 hours and was much worse than the first. Nearly all the rich quarter was looted and burnt, the Jesuit mission and schools, churches etc. Sporadic fires went on for several nights after. It was in this massacre that the school was surrounded and the people all shot as they came out. The Greeks in Adana were spared except when mistakes occurred; but not in the villages where the order was probably not understood. The Americans saw no Armenian shoot during the 2nd massacre. There is a rumour that there is to be another and the Moslems rejoice at the thought. The Vali is Jevad, my friend of 2 years ago here. He ought to be hanged in C'ple [Istanbul (Constantinople)]. So ought the bp. The court martial was at first quite biassed. 9 Moslems and 6 Armenians were hanged. 3 or 4 of the last were from one family, butchers and probably quite innocent. The others were the people who supplied them with sheep - most likely an intrique on the part of jealous Moslem butchers. Abd ul Kadir was on the first relief committee, £8000 were practically wasted. But the Commission from C'ple has done its very best to get at the real truth and has been quite impartial. Also the new relief com. is working admirably. 6 men have been sent from Salonica, 3 Xians 3 Moslems, one of each to sit on each of the court martials, Adana, Mardin and I forget the other. It is believed that no capital sentence can be passed without their consent and they are most impartial. Major D. is kept by the fact that some political refugees are in his house; they got in without his knowledge. He hates to have them but does not like to give them up. Mr Peters in C'ple says if he was an Armenian he wd be a revolutionary or leave the country. Mr Chambers took away the rifles from all those who took refuge with him but not their pistols; he thought they might need them. The belief in a wide spread scheme of Armenian revolt was probably sedulously fostered from C'ple and also by the Moslems of Adana. The first Turks who came to Adana to sit on the court martial were impressed carefully with this idea; hence their bias. It is believed that not one of the real leaders of the political agitation has been caught; the 6 who were executed were executed because somebody had to be.