Thurs. 9. [9 April 1896] Woke much discouraged! Lesson and out to
the Accademia where we stayed 2 hours. Very interesting. Lunched
late, met Madame Wiel on the Piazza and the Bp of Stepney of the
Giant's Stairs and up to the Marciana where we were shown by a
delightful old gentleman, the Conte somebody, the most beautiful
book in the world - Grimani's Breviary, made in Holland in the 15th
century. Hemling was the best of the painters employed on it - his 12
months of the year were astonishingly lovely - poetic delicate - and
the colour! and the veiled delicious landscapes! Also an inspired
Archangel and a blue Paradise full of golden heads too lovely for
words. A St Christopher growing under his burden, an Annunciation
with the Virgin turning away her face filled with ecstasy, and a death of
the Virgin full of peace and glorious pity. Said goodbye to Madame
Wiel with great sorrow and to the Bp with pleasure. Out in a gondola
where after wandering around the purlieus of the station which our
gondolier tried to persuade us were picturesque, out onto the
Giudecca and saw the sun set behind the Euganean Hills [Euganei,
Colli].