Thurs 2. [2 June 1898] Up at 5 off to the Pyramids. Heaps of camels,
Arabs, donkeys fellaheen coming over the bridge. Women in black
robes and long black veil, exquisite carriage, generally with things on
their heads. Through Ghizeh gardens, then along an avenue at the
end of which the Pyramids. Standing sentinel on the edge of the
desert which rises up above the valley in rocks and sand hills. At the
foot a house built by Ismael for the P. of Wales. Got out and walked to
the Sphinx followed by white robed, black cloaked Arabs tall and
beautiful, and camels. Sphinx's little round[?] head sticking up over
the sand, blank face looking out all over the plain to the opposite
desert, sun full in face of her. All round the rocky sand hills like ruins of
Titanic battlements. Wide open eyes that look and look and look and
hypnotise you. Went down into the Temple of the Sphinx; then on
camels to the 3rd Pyramid into which we were pushed and tugged
and so home. Our own dragoman was called Hassan. Stopped at
the Ghizeh Museum a most fascinating place. Mummies frightfully
interesting, some women wreathed in flowers, one old priestess lying
on her side just as she died. Statues of the builder of the 2nd Pyramid
extraordinarily fine and two great statues of gods. Greek and Roman
mummies with pictures on the mummy cases. Back to the hotel where
I dropped M. [Maurice] and went on to the Citadel; mosque of Hassan
first and opposite to it the unfinished mosque begun by Ismael's
mother where he is buried; fine view from the Citadel, aqueduct, our
Pyramids and Saqqarah [Saqqara] Pyramids far away, the Dashur
[Dahshur] Pyramid out of sight in the haze of dust; old Cairo, mosque
of Umr, and many domes and minarets. Home by an exquisite inlaid
little mosque in the Shara'i Darondieh. Lunch, slept. Out to the bazaar
where I bought a dagger and had tea with a Persian. Left cards on
Lord Cromer. Then I went alone onto the Citadel. Hotel full of infantine
middies.