Sat 15. [15 April 1899] Left Tripolitsa [Tripolis] at 8, a glorious
morning. Great fare and all the streets full of white clad peasants.
Passed our 40 German friends walking to Tegea. We however took
to the right across a green plain and up a col from whence we had a
lovely view of the mountain encircled corn country - the plain of Tegea
on which the Spartans danced - in chains. Up and down over hills,
covered with scrub, blue and scarlet anemonies, slylosa[?] iris, and
cyclamen. Lunched at a tiny khan called K [space left blank]. Hot
and bare. On again at 1.30 over more hills and finally up a long col
from the top of which we came face to face with Taygetus [Taiyetos
Oros], snow covered. Down and down in burning sun till we crossed
the Eurotas [Evrotas] and found ourselves by 5 o'clock in Sparta
[Sparti]. Lots of water, green corn, mulberries and poplars in first leaf.
While the others had tea, I walked down the wide, hovel lined streets
to the museum. With some difficulty, I got a small boy to fetch the key
whereupon a mixed crowd of gamins, mountebanks and soldiers
followed me in. Presently came the curator and drove them out and
showed me round. Funeral stele in low relief, many archaic, Dioscuri,
a girl pouring out a libation to Apollo, and a pretty female head. Lots
of serpents, the image of immortality even on the oldest stele. Papa
and Uncle Tom joined me and we set off to see a fine mosaic,
Roman of course in a tiny garden full of flowering oranges and
monthly roses. Then, while they sent a telegram, my curator friend
sent up a messenger in hot haste to fetch me to another mosaic "new
founded" which he explained to me with great care. Left at 6.30 and
drove between fields of green corn growing between grey olives with
Taygetus all white backing all. Crossed several arms of the Eurotas
full of water. Presently caught sight of a castle perched high up on a
hill and at its foot Misthra [Mistras] embedded in mulberries and
poplars. Our quarters in a charming house with a vine covered
verandah. Themistocles gave us an excellent dinner of 4 courses,
after which we sat on the balcony and looked at the black boule[?] of
hill cloven in the middle with paler ranges behind, a tiny moon above,
the tops of the mulberry trees for foreground and the scent of orange
blossom strong over all. The shrill cry of downy owls, the rattle of
frogs and a shepherd's pipe far away. Heavenly. Orange trees and
snow. Sound of running water. Women filling casks at the fountain.