Mon 11. [11 December 1899] We left Tripoli [Trablous] at midnight
and got to Beyrout [Beyrouth (Beirut)] at dawn. By 8.30 I was on land
and walked up to the Oriental Hotel where I breakfasted. Interviewed
Cook and the Hotel de la Ville. Delicious sunny day, blue sea, white
town and snowy Lebanon far away. Drove out to the Nahr el Kelb, an
hour and a half with a Syrian dragoman. All along the sea very
delicious and fertile country. Lots of orange gardens. The bridges all
broken down at the Nahr el K by the late rains, except one charming
old one. Walked up the rocks by the Phoenician road and saw
Egyptian and Assyrian stele cut on the rock. The Assyrian still quite
clear. Lunched overlooking the sea and drove home. Cyclamen and
narcissus flowering. Called on Mr Drummond Hay and so back to my
hotel where I had tea. Then walked about in the bazaars and eat ripe
dates. Back to my ship at 5 and saw the Saghalier come in. We left
at 8. The Saghalier people all went on in the Niger. Miserable night
with a stuffy cold.