Diaries

23/5/1905

Tues 23. [23 May 1905] Early to the Museum where Edmet Bey, Hamdy's son, met and entertained me. He is 22 and has excavated Cos [Kos] where he found the wonderful √ąphebe and the heads notably the idealised bust of Alexander. He is now busy with Alamanda(?) There is an interesting bit of bas relief from Cos like the Alexandrian series. It is the first of which the provenance is known to be A.M. They are arranging an architecture room with friezes from Magnesia -? Half of one of them is however in Paris. Hamdy arrived, a pleasant old party. He lent me catalogues and I set to work sight seeing. The Hittite room very remarkable, especially the great bas relief frieze from Sinjirle which he discovered and a great statue of a king in the round also from there. Spent a long time in the Byzantine room, specially occupied with the huge sarcophagus of which the background to the figures is arches, architraves (like the Selefke [Silifke (Seleucia)] sarcoph.) and the ambo which is so like it in style but not so well executed. Also most interesting fragments of 2 columns covered with vines and tiny scenes of figures between the leaves - a Baptism in particular; cf for the style the Venetian Acre ['Akko] columns. Lots of busts of old men with a book in their hands, bas reliefs in medallions all the same style. As I was going away Mrs Block and the Poynters arrived. Hamdy Bey caught me up and insisted on my lunching with him at the restaurant near the station. He told me of his finding the Alex. sarcoph. of his paintings and of les affreuses couches de ma fille. So back to the hotel where I wrote letters. Then down to the Golden Horn, tried to see Zander and Edwin Whittall neither of whom I found, and walked up to S. Sofia. It was the 'Asr. I made friends with a charming old party in a turban who sat with me in the gallery and chatted about my travels during prayers. His name is Muhammad Ali. After prayers I went down and walked about the wonderful place which is more lovely and spacious than ever. So home. Very hot night.

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